vaccum guage reads 6 for 1&3 and 26 for 2&4 no matter what way I adjust screw to sink both set of carbs with both sides of motor. Have need points, condenser and coil wires. Hoping to put off putting on ci conversion kit. Been on this project for several months. Did split timing on points

By David Morrow on Saturday, September 29, 2001 - 05:15 pm:

I can't help but think that you have less of a problem matching the two banks of carbs for the moment, and more of a problem of getting 2 & 4 down to a more reasonable level.

I've sync'd the carbs on both my Concours and my '75 Wing and never came close to 26. Someone out there must know more than me on what would make 2 & 4 read so high.

By Howard Ross McBride III on Saturday, September 29, 2001 - 06:13 pm:

I forgot to mention the bike is a 75 wing if that helps.

By Robert Bradley on Saturday, September 29, 2001 - 11:43 pm:

Had similiar problem on my bike trying to synch carbs using JC Whitney gauge set... drove me nuts. What I found out was that two of the brass adapter tubes that came with the gauges had a hairline crack in it that was darn near invisable to the naked eye. So check all your brass tubes and hoses for leaks and or restrictions..maybe the bike is not the problem......just a thought.

By Kerry Sabella on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 05:33 am:

Howard,

I read somewhere that mercury tubes (like "carb styx") were easier to work with and a lot more reliable when snycing GL carbs. Maybe it is your gauges. Know anybody with a mercury set-up?

Kerry
yellow 76

By David Shapiro on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 08:30 am:

Howard; I use one vacumn gauge to do my carb sync on my 76 GL1000. Its the guage that comes with the mini-vac test kit. I read somewhere that it is best to use one guage as opposed to more than one because all guages are not exactly the same. Heres what you do.

Cut two exact lengths of vacumn line for attaching to the carbs and one length for attaching to the guage. Use a brass or plastic T. The center of the T goes to the guage while the other two ends attach to the carbs.

Start with the right bank. Keep the engine idle at 1500 or less. Pinch off one side and take a mental reading. Then release that side and pinch off the other side. If the guage reads the same for both carbs, go to the left bank. If not, adjust till they do.

Do the same on the left bank. Last, attach one line to each bank (either carb) and do the same.

As a note, I had a helk of a time getting my bike to idle so I could do an honest carb sync. What I found out was my ballast resister was going bad giving very poor ignition spark at idle only. I'm still not sure the coil is not the problem but its affecting 1 and 2

Hope all this helps.
Dave