Click sound, won't run

GWRRA Message Board Archives: january2002: Click sound, won't run
By Alex Martinez on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 12:06 pm:

Hello, well just when I thought everything going, got the water hoses replaced, put in a thermostat, and I was running it to check for leaks, the engine cut off. Now it won't start, when I hit the start switch I hear a click coming out of the relays box. All my lights and dash lights work when I turn the key, just when I press the start button, I just hear that click sound, anyone have any idea what the problem might be?
Thanks
Alex

By Ken CHAPIN on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 12:17 pm:

year ??

By gary verhulst on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 12:32 pm:

You have a blown fuse, sounds like could be a shorted wire as you moved things around look where ever something was tied in (accessory)>Gary Verhulst Touring Goodies

By Alex Martinez on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 12:34 pm:

Sorry, a 1990 gl1500,

By Steve Caudle on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 12:54 pm:

You may have enough juice in the battery for everthing to turn on... but not enough to turn it over. The click may be just the solenoid engaging. Check battery voltage???

Steve

By Gerry. on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 01:14 pm:

Also check to ensure the battery connections are snug. Use a Volt meter to find the at rest voltage of the battery and voltage of the battery while using the start button.

Gerry.
93014

By Craig Archibald on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 02:12 pm:

Alex, it sounds like could be dirty connections most likly at battery and even if you think it looks good check it anyway even do a continuity test with an OHM meter on cables and wires. Since it was running probably not starter just low voltage. If you can get it running (jumped) feel for hot connections at batt and at solenoid, even the stator wires, may not be getting juice thru connectors to recharge batt or supply coil, Craig

By Alex Martinez on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 02:45 pm:

I had the battery hooked on the Battery Tender all night and it showed green light meaning it was charged. It died right after I had it running for no more than 5 minutes, but my volt meter now reads 11.4, could I have a bad battery?

By Steve Caudle on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 02:57 pm:

Dead battery if it takes full charge with less than 13.5 volts. A minimum voltage would be 12.5. Sounds like its a goner to me.

Steve

By Ralph Brown on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 04:21 pm:

You might also check to see if all the connections are clear. I had the same problem you are mentioning, 6 months after a new battery. Discovered a little corrosion on one of the terminals. Use dielectric grease now all the time and on all connections including the headset.

By George Mandry on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 04:51 pm:

Corrosion, loose connection - either could do it. Also, check the electrolyte level - may need to add some water. Also, check ALL the wirin' connectors, especially on the main fuse.

Oh, yeah - you had it idling for 4-5 minutes, ya say? By any chance, did you have any driving lights on? At idle, the 1500 alternator barely puts out 'nuff juice ta keep itself runnin'...


George - The Texas Redneck

By Alex Martinez on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 05:26 pm:

Well guys I bought a new battery and had the same problem. I was due for a new one anyhow, so the battery is out. I check all my connectors, battery connectors, silinoid, fuses, I tried a test on the silinoid, but I guess I am not too experience to really know if it's really bad, according to the service manual it checked OK. It looks corroded, but the test showed to be working. I cleaned it, but no luck either.
Somehow the new battery also showed 11.5 volts on my meter, so I don't know what the prob was, It was charged by the dealer for over an hour.
I guess I will try again tomorrow, or I may have to take it in, I dread doing that, cause I may have to get a loan on my morgage, what they charge.
What is weird, I all my electrical stuff seems to work, except when i press the start button, i just get a click coming from the relay box.
Thanks
Alex

By James I Jones on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 06:25 pm:

Alex, what city and state do you live in. There may be a GWRRA member living near you that has a mechanical background and will be willing to help you get it going.

By James I Jones on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 06:26 pm:

OOPS! I should have added or country.

By Bob C on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 06:38 pm:

Check the main fuses. Also, there are TWO solenoids, one just ahead of the battery (behind the main fuse) and one down on the frame below the oil fill hole. My bet is the solenoid right in front of the battery. You say it looks corroded... If you checked the one in front of the battery, it is mounted upside down and water can and WILL enter it causing it to corrode internally... Been there!

Watch the volt meter when you push the starter button. If it stays up, within a volt or two of the resting voltage, chances are the juice isn't getting through the solenoid or... did you disturb any engine ground during your service work? Accessories use a separate ground but if the engine isn't grounded the starter won't crank. Verify the engine ground with a jumper cable from the battery ground to the engine.

Those items ruled out OR if the volt meter goes WAY down... either the battery is no good (unlikely with a new one but not impossible), or the starter is getting the juice but the engine isn't turning over. How long did it run before quitting? Were you there? Were you watching the temperature gauge? If the fan control wire got left off the temperature sensor and the Wing was left idling unattended, it could have overheated big time. You don't want to know why it won't turn over if the battery is good and the voltmeter drops way down. To rule out the "unspeakable" you can roll it down a grade and see if it will turn over when you release the clutch (use 2nd gear) Alternately, on the center stand, work it up into overdrive and see if the wheel can turn the engine over manually (engine cutoff in the OFF position...).

Bob C

By Hank Yerger on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 06:38 pm:

You need to charge the new battery about 6hrs or better and longer is better on a 1 to 1.5 amp charger.

You still technically have a dead battery.

4hr charge is minimum for a new battery out of the box.

By Bob C on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 06:48 pm:

Yes Hank... didn't I catch his "one hour by dealer" statement. Overnight on a slow charge is correct...

Bob C

By Alex Martinez on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 10:33 pm:

The dealer told me all it needed was half hour to charge the battery, but it actually charged for about an hour, what do they know! I gues I will borrow a charger and charge it myself.
Thanks
I will try that!

By Alex Martinez on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 10:40 pm:

Can I charge the battery with my Battery Tender?

By Ralph Brown on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 12:32 am:

You should be able to. Red light will be on to begin with and when the green light comes on, then you are good to go. If no red light to start, then you don't have enough battery to start out with. As I understand it, the battery tender needs a voltage level to start with and then it will raise it to the appropriate level.

By dennis collins on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 05:03 pm:

o.k. guys, now don't tell me none of you have ever had the starter switch go south on you. when it gets dirty inside it just makes that sickening click and nothing happens. all you need to do is spray a good amount of good old wd-40 into the switch, let it sit a few minutes, do it again and it should reward you by starting. if not ? well i don't know !! but try that before you go spending your way into oblivion. d.c.c.


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